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PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 12:03 am 
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Metropolitan

Joined: Mon Oct 28, 2013 10:12 am
Posts: 36
Here's my clutch bleeding story: I rebuilt the master cylinder, could not get it bled. Reverse bleeding worked, but clutch would't disengage. Rebuilt the slave cylinder, no better. Replaced the master cylinder with reman unit, no better. Replaced slave with reman, no better. At last, I looked at the hose connecting the two. It looked almost new, so I never suspected it. Turns out the inner tube inside the hose had loosened and collapsed. When I reverse bled, it went through just fine, and when I bled normally at low pressure it worked fine. It was when high pressure was applied that the hose wall collapsed and closed shut, making it impossible to release the clutch.

I replaced the clutch hose and all was well.

I installed a clutch fluid reservoir from a Spirit. There are dimples in the firewall in place for this reservoir. Worked perfect.

Let me know if anyone needs replacement clutch fork balls. I have several extras. They tend to fall out and get lost during clutch replacement.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 6:42 am 
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Noob

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2013 9:10 am
Posts: 7
I will do my best, to explain what's happening with the vehicle. (as far as the clutch operation anyway)
When sitting there, engine off and E brake not engaged, while the transmission is in neutral, the vehicle will roll freely, with or without pressing the pedal. (makes no difference, either way). At this time, I can go through the gears, (same deal with the pedal, no effect) (will not roll, with transmission in gear). However, if I put the transmission into first gear, (or any gear, for that matter) and then attempt to start the engine, the vehicle will lurch forward. While the engine is running (in neutral) I can not put the transmission into gear, just wants to grind. I don't know the history of the vehicle, except that the fella I got it from replaced the clutch master cylinder.(and no, I don't know why he did. But he said it still needed to be bled)


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 11:38 am 
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Pacer
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Joined: Fri Feb 08, 2013 9:06 am
Posts: 562
Location: Central Pennsylvania
if both the master and slave look like they are indeed new I'd go ahead and replace the line.

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1980 AMC Eagle 2 door sedan
1988 AMC Jeep Comanche pioneer


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 2:22 pm 
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Rebel
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2013 2:07 pm
Posts: 115
Location: Lancaster PA
Like Bill said, replace the line. If you are still having issues it would seem air is still trapped in the system. Can you watch the the slave actuator to see if it's moving? If you're testing overall clutch engagement, start the car in neutral and try reverse, all other gears are synchronized and by a fluke might make the car go forward. If it grinds going into reverse, the clutch is not disengaging. Otherwise, what's the history of the car? How old is the clutch assembly?

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 02, 2013 11:03 pm 
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Rogue

Joined: Tue Jul 02, 2013 7:19 am
Posts: 73
Location: Colorado
You can also try gravity bleeding the clutch. Hook a hose up to the bleeder valve, with the other end in some fluid. Loosed the bleeder valve and just let it flow. Make sure to keep an eye on the reservoir so that it doesn't run dry. Let it go for a full bottle of fluid and all of the air should be out of the lines. But if there is any air in the master or slave cylinders, you'll have to employ a different method for bleeding.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 22, 2013 12:28 pm 
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Noob

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2013 9:10 am
Posts: 7
Okay guys, Im back. I pulled the slave cylinder. If I do the pics right, you'll see what I found... The boot was fine, clamped on the rod end and tight on the slave cyl. end. I have since put on a new slave. I still can't get a pedal. I have removed the clutch master cyl. I wanted to check if it needed to be rebuilt. (although the fella I got the car from, said it was done) But I don't know how to open it. I have looked at a cut-away diagram and it looks like the valve seal may not be doing its job. How do I get it open, I don't want to force and break something. I am also posting a pic of the master cyl. I'm dealing with. I already took out the lock ring and operating rod...


Attachments:
File comment: How do I open, to re-build??
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IMG_1249.jpg [ 1.15 MiB | Viewed 2221 times ]
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IMG_1224.jpg [ 1.06 MiB | Viewed 2221 times ]
File comment: inside the slave is very corroded, even though the boot was fine.
IMG_1222.jpg
IMG_1222.jpg [ 1.04 MiB | Viewed 2221 times ]
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 22, 2013 8:44 pm 
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Hornet
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Joined: Thu May 02, 2013 10:40 am
Posts: 1175
Location: North Seattle sort of
You got the snap ring and push rod out of the master? Gently bang it on a block of soft wood. The plunger (and fluid) will come out.

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