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PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 9:44 am 
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Okay, I'm new at this and kind of baffled. As if the eagle in the driveway hasn't got me scratching my head enough, I am trying to figure out how to get my question out to you guys. I'm going to take a chance, that you guys are getting this. Here's my question.
We just recently acquired a 1982 AMC eagle wagon, for my son. (he's better with this stuff, than I am, but he's away at school right now.) there are a few different issues, but to begin with... The fellow we got the eagle from, said the clutch needed to be bled. When I attempted to bleed the clutch, I could see the fluid, "squirting" up into the reservoir, every time I pushed the clutch peddle down. I should mention here, the original clutch fluid reservoir is gone, he replaced it with a little (clear) one off a motorcycle. Is this reservoir going to work?? If not, where would someone look for a replacement reservoir??
Thank you in advance for taking the time to read this and hopefully for some insight...


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 10:23 am 
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Javelin
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Location: Fayetteville, TN
The reservoir is just to hold the fluid anything will work. Earlier Eagles didn't even have a reservoir, just a tube. I always have better luck either using a hand vacuum pump bleeder like a Mityvac or using a large syringe, that is generally used for feeding animals, and attaching a hose between it and the slaves bleeder and forcing the fluid up to the reservoir aka reverse bleeding. A buddy of mine uses a hand held garden sprayer to do this with brakes.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 11:13 am 
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okay, so i'll try reverse bleeding, I'm guessing I open the bleeder put a hose on it, attached to something that will force the fluid back up to the reservoir... sounds easy enough... I'll keep you posted, Thanks


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 3:27 pm 
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Javelin
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Location: Fayetteville, TN
dvcmvt01 wrote:
okay, so i'll try reverse bleeding, I'm guessing I open the bleeder put a hose on it, attached to something that will force the fluid back up to the reservoir...

Yup.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 31, 2013 5:08 pm 
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Javelin

Joined: Thu Mar 28, 2013 9:07 am
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If your Eagle wagon is a 1982 6 cylinder it did not have a resevoir from the factory. Instead it had a terrible plastic tube with a crude vent on top. It often cracked. Someone was wise to replace that with a better resevoir.

The best resevoir would be the 4 cylinder version, which every 4 cylinder (Eagle or Spirit) and very few 6 cylinders had. At one time it was reported that all 6 cylinder Eagles had the tube only but I've seen several 1981 Eagles provided the 4 cylinder unit from the factory including two that I own. I've never seen a 1982 or newer 258 Eagle with one from the factory, as well as the majority of 1981 258 cars, so it seems like only early 1981 258 cars had them.

I will try the reverse bleeding technique. It's a good idea that I've never tried. I've always bled the system by taking a ratchet strap and gently forcing the slave cylinder closed. I then had an assistant pump gently while I bled from underneath. You must force the slave closed or else there isn't enough back pressure to get the air bubbles to push down. This is a very common frustration.

Make sure you don't push the pedal too hard. It is very easy to fatigue and bend the U shaped pedal connection to the Master. If the U does bend, the pedal will reach the floor before the clutch disengages and you're stuck. Most need to be repaired and gussetted by now, so it may already be repaired.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 3:17 am 
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good info, thank you... I'm starting to understand why I've had such a hard time trying to find an original reservoir. It has the tube, but nothing on top.
seems this forum is going to be one of the most useful tools for the car...
thanks again...


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 7:14 am 
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I tried the reverse bleeding, first problem, I could not close the slave cyl. I tried with a ratchet strap, but couldn't get it to move, I did have the bleeder open, ( I might just not be strong enough), I didn't want to force it too much and break something. so I went ahead and tried the bleeding anyway. I put a hose on the bleeder and attached it to a turkey baster, it looked like it worked, I didn't see a lot of air, but the fluid came up the tube, up top, behind the brake booster. Unfortunately still no clutch. Should the peddle be up or down, during the process? I had it up...


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 7:34 am 
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Javelin

Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2013 7:35 am
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Location: Bloomsburg, PA
dvcmvt01 wrote:
I tried the reverse bleeding, first problem, I could not close the slave cyl. I tried with a ratchet strap, but couldn't get it to move, I did have the bleeder open, ( I might just not be strong enough), I didn't want to force it too much and break something. so I went ahead and tried the bleeding anyway. I put a hose on the bleeder and attached it to a turkey baster, it looked like it worked, I didn't see a lot of air, but the fluid came up the tube, up top, behind the brake booster. Unfortunately still no clutch. Should the peddle be up or down, during the process? I had it up...


How long did you do it for? Does your slave cylinder move at all when you press the clutch pedal down? Is the slave tightly in place? Did you close the bleeder back up?


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 10:35 am 
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I only did it for a moment or two. I don't know if the slave moves at all, when pushing the pedal (working alone). If you mean mounted, yes the slave is tightly in place. Yes I closed the bleeder.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 5:14 pm 
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Javelin

Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2013 7:35 am
Posts: 224
Location: Bloomsburg, PA
dvcmvt01 wrote:
I only did it for a moment or two. I don't know if the slave moves at all, when pushing the pedal (working alone). If you mean mounted, yes the slave is tightly in place. Yes I closed the bleeder.


Sometimes it takes a while to get all the air out, if the line is bent oddly or misshapen it can trap air in the line as well. Also, if the problem is air in the lines, then pumping the clutch pedal rapidly will allow the clutch to release as enough pressure and fluid is pushed into the line to mitigate the air temporarily, unless there is air entering the system from somewhere. Set up a video camera facing your slave cylinder, anything will work, even a cheap phone that can take video. You just need an extra set of eyes while your pumping the pedal. Have you replaced the fluid? Bad fluid can have solids in it which will act similarly to air and compress in a hydraulic line instead of moving the force around; no amount of bleeding will help if your fluid is bad. What actually happens when you press the pedal in? Will the car roll as if it is in neutral? Can you easily engage gears while the car is at a standstill?


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