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 Post subject: Feeling the need to vent
PostPosted: Thu Jul 11, 2013 11:40 am 
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Pacer

Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2013 5:28 pm
Posts: 624
Location: St. Charles County, Mo.
After finding that vile stuff known as (shudder) rust on BlackBird I begin to wonder what I wanna do. Earlier (last night) I'd been thinking over the idea of selling Bleep to finance repairs on BlackBird, now not so sure what I wanna do. Of the two, I'd RATHER have BlackBird, but I HATE that vile word (even more than electrical)!!! Bleep doesn't need much stuff, A/C compressor shot craps sometime between last fall when I quit using it & this spring when I tried to use it again, needs the rear brakes adjusted, & the wiring from the 4 way flasher, high-low beam, turn signal, & washer/wiper switch stretched a little (too tight, low beams go out when you tilt the wheel). Runs great, came with 4 new tires on it, body solid & no big dings. Does have OVER 225,000 miles on it. To me, that's a lot! BlackBird on the other hand NEEDS A LOT. That foul four letter word to start, two more new tires, strut rod bushings, fuel & temp. gauges both inop., driver's seat shot (not just the big rip, springs are shot. Feels like I'm sitting on the floor). Interior trash, no headliner, got a carpet at the Pigg Penn, haven't put it in yet. Needs door panels (have a set in the wrong color that could be put on), mirrors (on their way from El Matador, THANKS!!), driver's door hinge pin bushings, cruise control inop. - haven't messed with it yet, thinking the FIRST problem with that is the vacuum isn't hooked up, just a short line on it doesn't go anywhere, just loops back to another fitting on the fender control. Just frustrated I guess. No money to fix stuff, no place to do anything (apartment complex & they look at you dirty if you open the hood to check the oil). As for that nasty word, no way to do that, need to be able to cut out the old metal & weld new in. Leaves me out there. :( :? :cry: Sorry for the rant, just bummed out trying to figure out what I wanna do.


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Inner fender rust BlackBird.jpg
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 11, 2013 11:50 am 
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Pacer

Joined: Sat Jun 01, 2013 3:03 am
Posts: 857
Are those the front fenders? If so never fear I'll save the pair I have.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 11, 2013 11:57 am 
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Pacer

Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2013 5:28 pm
Posts: 624
Location: St. Charles County, Mo.
Yeah, driver's front. IF someone had the skill (not I) it could be saved by cutting that spot out & welding new metal in. Lacking the skill, changing it out would be my only other choice. Hate to use a good fender that someone might need to fix accident damage for this spot, but only way I could ever fix it.

** EDIT **

Maybe it's the pills. Taking some stuff for a rash/itching, says "May cause mood changes". I don't know, just feel like doing something, but don't know what to do. BlackBird needs A LOT, Bleep has ALMOST double the miles (227,500 vs. 130,000). If they were both about even as far as mileage/needed repairs, I'd be doing my best to keep BlackBird going. As is, I'm kinda undecided what to do. Bleep has a lot going for it as far as age & needed repairs, but it's NOT the same as an Eagle! Plus the mileage difference. On the other hand, BlackBird IS an Eagle, a classic. They don't make 'em like that anymore as the saying goes. Also, 100,000 less miles is a BIG plus!


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 11, 2013 12:51 pm 
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Eagle
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Joined: Fri Feb 08, 2013 4:49 pm
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Location: Toledo, Iowa USA
Bleeps rear brakes should be self adjusting unless stuff is messed up inside the drum. The A/c may only need a shot of Freon as there has to be a sufficient amount of refrigerant in the system for it to engage the compressor. That low beam issue seems to be a common problem in tilt steering wheels on older XJ's ours has the same problem and many of your electrical problems may be related to issues in the steering column.

First thing that needs to be addressed is the rust issues on the front subframe. It is not far gone, yet, and that rust can be stopped and some gussets welded in to strengthen that area.

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Doug, formerly known as IowaEagle.
"You gotta know the basics before you do the mods."
"I was in to AMC's before AMC's were cool."

1970 Ambassador SST 2 dr Hard Top Coupe
1980 Concord DL 4 dr
1982 Eagle SX/4 Sport


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 11, 2013 1:04 pm 
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Hornet
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Location: North Seattle sort of
Adjusters get stuck and need a minor manual adjust now and then.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 11, 2013 1:12 pm 
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Eagle
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Joined: Fri Feb 08, 2013 10:22 am
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Location: Missouri, Rolla
Those pics of your rust don't look bad at all!


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 11, 2013 1:39 pm 
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Pacer

Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2013 5:28 pm
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Location: St. Charles County, Mo.
Brakes on Bleep are from when Tech School backed them off to check the lining when it was in there. The A/C is NOT Freon, had it checked when I met Brandon. Guy put gauges on & said it was full. You could hear the compressor try to kick on. Other than the tilt/high beam issue, Bleep doesn't have electrical issues. BlackBird - cleaning that crack I could probably do. Getting it welded & repaired? MAYBE I could find some place to do that. Do know where there is a welding shop, had a bad experience with them before though, not on my list of top ten places I'd wanna go back to.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2013 8:16 am 
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Javelin

Joined: Thu Mar 28, 2013 9:07 am
Posts: 216
That rust is perfectly fine. It would be crazy to bother welding it.

Sand it as best you can with wire wheel, take a punch and hammer and beat out any and all rust scale that you can, then wire wheel it some more, and then paint it real well. Fill in the scale texture with fiberglass bondo (waterproof and flexible, it is totally different than normal bondo) to make it smooth externally, then paint again. Start to finish it should take you two hours per side and it will stall and stop the rust for at least 5 years.

On the fender, wire wheel it, paint it so it doesn't get worse, and forget about it. There will be a hole there. Whoopty-do, it is supposed to have trim covering it anyway.

If a hole opens up in the subframe, who cares? It is paper thin there for a reason. The whole assembly works like an I beam, where the web doesn't matter and the top and bottom and especially the nominal distance between them does matter. You could drill a dozen holes through that part of the subframe and the car won't even notice.

See the worst of the rust at the top of the subframe? Every Eagle rusts here. The subframe is in the shape of a lower case letter "d", where the metal comes together and sticks up a few inches. The entire four inches that sticks up often gets water and scale there, and just rusts apart. It is not structurally important. Yours is much better than any other North Eastern Eagle out here where I live.

The only place to worry is right at the base of the shock tower. The welds that join the shock tower to the subframe easily attract rust, especially since there is a little depression under the control arm where salt and water likes to collect. If your shock tower breaks free of your subframe it will distort and be unrepairable. That is the single most important place to be vigilant and proactive about rust repair.


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