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PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 2014 10:20 pm 
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Javelin
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Location: manitowoc wi
the bubbles are easily seen they have surface tension and thus look like bubbles. you should not have to push it out. if you do than there is a obstruction that needs to be corrected. like a pinched hose or rust blockage somewhere. my wifes lincoln had a metal clip that swelled on the rubber line i could not get fluid to gravity drain. I could push it past however. thus the reason the caliper was locked up.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2015 7:41 am 
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Javelin

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My father's Chevy truck has a very aggressive brake pressure equalizer and it won't let normal bleeding procedures work, especially when the front or the rear is totally empty and the opposite system is totally fine and already has pressure. You can sometimes get around that by opening up the front system long enough for fluid to push back to the rear. In practice it is pretty stubborn.

For those situations I keep borrowing my mechanics vacuum bleeder. It literally sucks the fluid out and stores it similar to how those hand vacuum pumps are supposed to work. It works wonderfully and very quickly. I have a hand pump but don't bother with it when that thing is readily available to me. I don't trust gravity bleeding to be thorough enough and use the vacuum method when its complex or needs to be really thorough.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2015 2:08 pm 
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Javelin
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Just remember. It needs to be able to gravity drain, otherwise you might never see a blockage issue. I could go either way, gravity bleed or pressure bleed (positive or negative) as to what is best. Positive you can see a loose connection somewhere. Neative you will get bubbles constantly in your reservoir. Gravity you can feel if somthing is wrong when done.
also on gravity bleed, you can judge how much and fast it drains should be equal on each side.

btw positive=pressure someone pushes peddle
Negative=vacuum some kind of pump

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2015 3:30 pm 
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Just my 2 cents. Some times the plumbing in cars hinders the flow, you know, the curly Q's and switchbacks that somebody creatively put in during a line replacement. If you can't get something gravity bled, maybe the air is trapped in the master cylinder. Take your favorite soft beating device and slam the daylights out of the master cylinder. Just kidding, take a soft mallet and tap around the MC to try to dislodge any air in it's bore. Sometimes, it's even necessary to crack a brake line at the MC (regular pump bleeding) to get rid of the air. I have a tool called a Phoenix Injector. You put pressure from the tool from the bleeder back to the master cylinder. I started using it to bleed stubborn hydraulic clutches when nothing else would work.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 27, 2015 4:17 pm 
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Javelin
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Pigtails aside it will gravity drain. A couple of my aerostars had those. I think i remember having 6 ofthose awd rear traction control beasts. Anyway it will bleed out. However as previous poster mentioned the mc should be bench bled

edited to say....my concord has been leaking on the mc for a couple of months just found it today. As the booster was wet.
i am able to gravity bleed that out as well. It takes some time but works. Of course it takes nearly a week to get the replacement in. Grrrrrrrrr.

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