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PostPosted: Sat Dec 07, 2013 10:16 pm 
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Javelin

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If you measure the voltage of a wire with a resistor on it that is not plugged into anything it will give a false reading. It will always read 12V because no current is flowing. No current, no voltage drop across the resistor. It's a common mistake to misinterpret that.

If you twist the yellow wire to the wire feeding the dizzy in a way that you can poke you voltmeter to it you'll find the exact same spot you measured 12V before now reads less. It will drop once current flows. Lets say you read 9 ohms of resistance across the power and ground of the dizzy and the yellow wire has 3 ohms of resistance between the battery 12V and the dizzy. That would be 12 ohms of resistance along this path between battery terminals. You would measure 9 volts after the yellow wire and before the dizzy when the circuit is closed and 12V at the same spot when the circuit is open. The dizzy works when fed 9 volts but works even better if given 12V.


I'd personally make a new wire with a crimp ring and run it right to the side of the solenoid nearest the battery.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 3:53 pm 
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Rogue

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dleberfinger wrote:
eegelbeek wrote:
On the original Motorcraft ignition there was a resistor wire going to the yellow wire. For an HEI (I believe) you need 12 volts directly from the switch. You would need to find the resistance section of the wiring and bypass it. :eagle:


It read 12V when the key was on. However, it won't start. A lot of gas vapor belches out the carb when I try to start it, however it doesn't sound like it's firing at all. I'm fairly certain the plug wires are all correct, I checked twice, and I would assume the timing is on. Either way, regardless of changing the timing, it won't fire at all, not even backfire.

To anyone who has bought the skip white distributor, what did the coil contact on the inside of the cap look like? Mine is black and looks almost like it has a plastic coating. Is the power not actually coming from there on this distributor?

Edit: I should have read this thread a bit more carefully. Had I done so I would have seen that the Captain had already posted what I posted below. My apologies, Captain.
12 volts at the end of the resistance wiring is to be expected when a reading is taken with the coil disconnected. Resistance doesn't drop voltage until a load is applied to the circuit e.g. the coil (or the HEI) is connected.

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Last edited by eegelbeek on Sun Dec 08, 2013 8:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 6:41 pm 
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Capt hit the nail on the head, run a separate jumper wire (10ga) from the solenoid to the distributor, to ensure a 12 volt source. As for popping out through the carb, are you sure you're not 180 out?

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 7:43 pm 
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Hornet
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so, if you run 12v from the solenoid, how do you kill the power to it? needs to be ignition power.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 7:45 pm 
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Eagle

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and you want to have power while cranking over the engine as well, otherwise you will just end up cranking the engine over, and not start it.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 7:58 pm 
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I should've elaborated a bit, let me grab a pic to show what I mean.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 8:08 pm 
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See the yellow wire? Utilizing the terminal that yellow wire is connected to will give you power while cranking, and while the ignition is on, cuts power when ignition is turned off.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 10:46 pm 
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Hornet
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ok, because I thought you were talking about the bat side of the solenoid. then you wouldn't shut it off. lol.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 09, 2013 6:18 am 
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Javelin

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Shagg wrote:
Capt hit the nail on the head, run a separate jumper wire (10ga) from the solenoid to the distributor, to ensure a 12 volt source. As for popping out through the carb, are you sure you're not 180 out?


I'm fairly certain I'm not. I lined up my vacuum canister with the old one and replaced it so the rotor faced the same way.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 09, 2013 8:30 pm 
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Hornet
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That terminal gets 12VDC while cranking IF the terminal isn't worn off inside. When you let go of the key it drops back to about 9VDC. That will restrict your revs. TDC on the harmonic balancer lines up for #1 or #6 because teh crank turns twice for 1 dist revolution.

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