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PostPosted: Sat Nov 30, 2013 1:31 pm 
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Rogue

Joined: Wed Mar 20, 2013 1:32 pm
Posts: 81
Location: Akron, OH
carnuck wrote:


You may have a slight vacuum leak too. Try backing the choke adjustment 1/4" and see how it works. This is of course after making cure the vacuum choke break is working. Some MCs have it under the airfilter (my preferred design) and it can be adjusted a bit there.



Vacuum choke break? Please explain; I am not familiar with this.....

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1985 AMC Eagle
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 30, 2013 2:59 pm 
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Hornet
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Location: North Seattle sort of
This is the 2150 choke diagram. They call the break the choke pulldown diaphragm

http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs ... 04b0e8.gif

Here's the 2100 (they just call it the diaphragm stop screw)
http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs ... 04ae2f.gif

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 30, 2013 7:52 pm 
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Javelin
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Posts: 280
Location: Royersford, PA
I have a Carter carb Derek. I'll try adding a ground wire before I leave tomorrow.

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1982 AMC Eagle SX/4 Sport 4x4
-4.0l I6 Engine (circa 1996)
-GM Hydroboost Brakes
-TF998 Auto/NP129
-Carter BBD Carb
-MSD Streetfire Ignition/TFI
-Aluminum CJ Radiator
-205/75/R15 General Grabber A/T Tires


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 30, 2013 9:21 pm 
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Hornet
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Joined: Tue Feb 12, 2013 6:39 pm
Posts: 922
my 2150 uses no vacuum choke pull off. no need for it really. set the choke so its just barely on when cold. they are made to be adjustable for a reason. I have to adjust mine about 3x's a year. mid dec-late jan temps are -30* at night, and MAY get up to -10* during the day. so I need to adjust for the choke to be on a little longer to make a little more heat in the engine. then like right now, its at the mid setting. choke is only full for about 45 seconds, then its off. during the summer, most of the time I don't have to mess with it really. as its to warm for the choke to even come on, and it don't even need it.

I think I got the best of both worlds on when I grew up turning wrenches. right when efi was coming on scene, so I got to learn about it as it came along. the shop manager where I work had to do a HUGE learning curve on efi thru the early years. I grew up owning carbed rigs, but learning the efi and carbs together. seems like today most young people only know efi, and can NOT understand a carb. and a lot of the guys that worked on carbs all their lives have a hard time getting the efi, and all the other electronic crap in cars today. knowing both very well is great! carbs and efi can be just as complicated in each others own ways to get set CORRECTLY!

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dave

WHEN IN DOUBT, BUY MORE BEER!!!!

ASE cert. mechanic 15 years.

http://www.picasaweb.google.com/das24rules

62 rambler classic (casper)
63 rambler american (rosie)
82 eagle sx4 (honeybadger)
82 eagle sw (rottywagon)
79 spirit (drag race car)


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 30, 2013 10:28 pm 
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Javelin
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Joined: Mon Apr 08, 2013 6:08 am
Posts: 280
Location: Royersford, PA
I was too anxious to make some adjustments, so I went out and fiddled with the carb for a little bit. I came across a couple things.

First, I've had my fuel filter clocked to the side, so a little too much of the fuel might have been flowing back through the return line. Don't know if this would make much difference in how it runs, but I corrected it so the return line was on top.

Second, my choke pull off was opening the choke blade a little too much. I synchronized it with the fast idle linkage to be on the second step of the fast idle cam when opened, but hopefully it's correct since I just used my hand to open it instead of a vacuum gauge which I don't have. I wasn't able to run the car tonight because it's loud, so I'll test in the morning.

The choke unloader was opening the choke blade way too far at WOT, which was adjusted with the fast idle linkage. This may have been why I was bogging out at full throttle on my way home. I rechecked the accelerator pump, that was fine, and the step up piston was also very close to spec if not exact.

Lastly, I found another potential vacuum leak that went unnoticed before. The plastic tube on the charcoal canister that should be connected to ported vacuum, as seen in the following picture (not mine), is snapped off leaving a tiny open hole. Not sure how much difference this makes either, but I'll try to fix/plug/replace the canister tomorrow.
http://i438.photobucket.com/albums/qq10 ... G_0089.jpg

*Edit: After reading about how the canister works, this shouldn't affect how the engine runs. My CTO in the intake is plugged and not hooked up, so there would be nothing to open this valve anyway. It might partly explain my shitty gas mileage though, since the valve never opens and the evaporated fuel is not being burned...

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1982 AMC Eagle SX/4 Sport 4x4
-4.0l I6 Engine (circa 1996)
-GM Hydroboost Brakes
-TF998 Auto/NP129
-Carter BBD Carb
-MSD Streetfire Ignition/TFI
-Aluminum CJ Radiator
-205/75/R15 General Grabber A/T Tires


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 1:18 am 
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Hornet
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Joined: Tue Feb 12, 2013 6:39 pm
Posts: 922
your choke is supposed to be wide open at WOT. it shouldn't be on what so ever when at WOT!!!! it will over fuel it BIG TIME if the choke is least bit towards closed position. your linkage shouldn't allow the choke to be closed any at wot. if the choke plate is closed any, that could be your wot bog, its flooding it out. the venture system of a carb is very sensitive to air flow obstructions. on my drag car, just removing the choke plate made such a HUGE difference. (drag race, its idle, and WOT only) I had to put a little bigger jet in when I removed the choke plate, because it sucked more air in. picked up 1.5 tenths just doing that in the same air conditions. (that's big in bracket racing.) it will have similar effects in a street car, but street cars aren't generally as touchy tho. I said GENERALLY!!! iirc, your still running the carter carb? make sure you have good connections all the way thru your electric pull off housing to the spring and all. you need a dovm and check resistance to everything. good power, ground, ect. the power is SUPPOSED to be thru the oil pressure switch, so its powered when the oil pressure switch has pressure, so that its not sending power thru the choke housing if the car is off. (if its still set to stock, don't ask how honeybadger is set up.)

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dave

WHEN IN DOUBT, BUY MORE BEER!!!!

ASE cert. mechanic 15 years.

http://www.picasaweb.google.com/das24rules

62 rambler classic (casper)
63 rambler american (rosie)
82 eagle sx4 (honeybadger)
82 eagle sw (rottywagon)
79 spirit (drag race car)


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 9:30 am 
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Javelin
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Location: Royersford, PA
Ok, I was misinterpreting the choke unloader. It has nothing to do with engine operation while driving I don't think. Instead, the choke unloader is for clearing a flooded engine when the throttle is fully depressed and car is shut off. With the throttle fully open, the tang on the throttle should hit the fast idle cam just enough to open the choke blade 9/32" from the air horn wall. It's shown in fig. E of this BBD manual:

http://www.epiccomputer.com/dale/jeepju ... terbbd.pdf

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1982 AMC Eagle SX/4 Sport 4x4
-4.0l I6 Engine (circa 1996)
-GM Hydroboost Brakes
-TF998 Auto/NP129
-Carter BBD Carb
-MSD Streetfire Ignition/TFI
-Aluminum CJ Radiator
-205/75/R15 General Grabber A/T Tires


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 12:47 pm 
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Javelin
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Joined: Mon Apr 08, 2013 6:08 am
Posts: 280
Location: Royersford, PA
The car started right away this morning without starting fluid, but it stumbled a lot. It also wasn't nearly as cold today, about 40 degrees out. My choke still wasn't opening up when the car was warm, even after I added 2 ground wires to it. I'll mess with it when I'm home again in 2 weeks...

_________________
1982 AMC Eagle SX/4 Sport 4x4
-4.0l I6 Engine (circa 1996)
-GM Hydroboost Brakes
-TF998 Auto/NP129
-Carter BBD Carb
-MSD Streetfire Ignition/TFI
-Aluminum CJ Radiator
-205/75/R15 General Grabber A/T Tires


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 1:37 pm 
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Hornet
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Joined: Tue Feb 12, 2013 6:39 pm
Posts: 922
make sure the contacts inside the choke housing, and the bimetal spring is good still.

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dave

WHEN IN DOUBT, BUY MORE BEER!!!!

ASE cert. mechanic 15 years.

http://www.picasaweb.google.com/das24rules

62 rambler classic (casper)
63 rambler american (rosie)
82 eagle sx4 (honeybadger)
82 eagle sw (rottywagon)
79 spirit (drag race car)


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 7:22 pm 
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Javelin
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Joined: Mon Apr 08, 2013 6:08 am
Posts: 280
Location: Royersford, PA
It's probably just a bad thermostat. Sucks because they're so expensive new, and I won't be sure that's what's wrong until I put a new one on. I got about 9mpg on my way back though, so it might be worth it. Funny thing is it drove really well.

_________________
1982 AMC Eagle SX/4 Sport 4x4
-4.0l I6 Engine (circa 1996)
-GM Hydroboost Brakes
-TF998 Auto/NP129
-Carter BBD Carb
-MSD Streetfire Ignition/TFI
-Aluminum CJ Radiator
-205/75/R15 General Grabber A/T Tires


Top
 Profile  
 
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