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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 6:07 pm 
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I'm still a firm believer in the toilet (carburetor), pull the lever and it flushes, no electronic bullshit, no sensors, just mechanical, vacuum fuel/air regulation. Electronic F/I does not add hp, a properly tuned carb will do just as fine on a street engine as an injected one. The advantage of the F/I, compensation, it will compensate for condition where a carb will not (IE: cold, elevation, humidity, horizon, etc.) When I swapped my 4.0 over to a carb, I saw no loss in power, actually by seat of the pants, I gained in the mid to upper rpm range, but may have lost a little bottom end (my stock inj 4.0 had no balls at a passing situation, where as the carbed version of the same engine, same gears, same tires, put's you back in the seat, but off idle the injected version had a little more snot). The carb may not be as efficient at the pump, but it will work no matter what the condition (providing it's in good working order).

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 30, 2013 8:52 pm 
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I feel that way with LPG. No fuel pump needed. Mixer bolts to the intake and the regulator gets hot water run through it by way of the heater lines. No cat needed to run clean. Vacuum draw and I have a 5 gallon backup tank with a manual switch valve.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 01, 2013 8:50 am 
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carnuck wrote:
I feel that way with LPG. No fuel pump needed. Mixer bolts to the intake and the regulator gets hot water run through it by way of the heater lines. No cat needed to run clean. Vacuum draw and I have a 5 gallon backup tank with a manual switch valve.


What is the comparable cost and power for LPG? Can I run higher compression? Will it power a Stroker?
MPG where can I go and find this info? I saw a used kit locally and now I got an itch to know.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 03, 2013 9:51 am 
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The type of kit makes a difference. Dual fuel is the WORST. Unless you get it for free, it costs more to operate on LPG AND gas over a single use system due to the restriction of flow (I designed a way around that for my old Chev) If the LPG in your area is cut with butane, it lowers the "octane" level and the worst mix makes it like standard 8.5:1 motor compression. Clean propane only is 110 "octane" and can handle up to 11:1 compression. A basic stroker motor is about 10.25:1 so it's perfect. I wanted to run Natural Gas and LPG (through the same mixer, but there was always the "possibility" that the high pressure gas could force it's way into the low pressure tank, so it's illegal! :smh: )
Different brands have different strengths and weaknesses (like Holly vs Edelbrock) Century is reliable and simple, but not overly efficient (unless they made changes since I left the conversion market), Tartarinni was awesome for CNG, but not so great for LPG and the diaphragm didn't like backfires. (got it down to 30 minutes to pull and overhaul the one on my E350)
OHG makes a VERY nice carbed system. They used to work for some of the other big names back in the day and got together because they knew something better was do-able (OHG = over the hill gang) That's what I have for my truck, but just as I "retired" from wrenching, LPG-EFI was just taking off. The government doesn't want average Joe swapping fuels in their cars (many have no clue as to the dangers of doing it wrong, even though it's all quite simple) Any conversion needs certification after install for highway use. http://gotpropane.com for carbed stuff and http://www.bi-phase.com/ for EFI (currently only fleet motors are covered)

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