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 Post subject: 4.0 Engine Swap
PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 3:00 pm 
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Eagle
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Location: Missouri, Rolla
So I know there is a wealth of knowledge out there on the Wiki, but I figured we need some more content for the forums. This thread will be for discussing any and all 4.0 Swap related things. If anyone had a write up with pictures let me know and I'll add them in here to the OP.

When I say 4.0 Engine Swap I mean the full swap. We can make another one to discuss 4.0 Head Swaps.

I've compiled a bit more info and put it together in this Google Drive document. Feel free to look it over and let me know if anything needs to be added. At this time it's primarily for a 4.0 w/ carb swap.
AMC Eagle 4.0 Engine Swap

Here is the content

Full 4.0 Engine Swap - The Details

What to buy new while the engine is out?
1. Clutch (If you have a MT)
2. 4.0 Valve Cover Gasket (Felpro Recommended)
3. Oil Pan Gasket (Felco Recommended. Pan gasket is the same for both 4.2 and 4.0)
4. 4.0 Front Main Seal
5. Water Pump (4.2 or 4.0 depending on if you are using the Eagle or Cherokee Belt System)
6. 4.0 Oil Filter Adapter O-ring
7. 4.0 Rear Main Seal (Replace if it looks like it’s seeping.)
8. Fuel Pump (Low pressure one for carb 3-7psi. High pressure for EFI)
9. Fuel Filter

Which 4.0?
The ‘91-95 Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, Wrangler. (Pre-’91 has the Renix system which most consider inferior to the 4.0HO MPI. After ‘95 they upgraded to OBDII and apparently wiring in the harness is much harder.)

4.0 Engine Prep
1. Bosses on the back of the engine block (drivers side) may need to be tapped for the axle bracket.
i. Some 4.0 blocks will already be tapped. In any case the bosses will be there so check if they are tapped or not. If not, tap them.

2. Grind down that 2nd rib on the block. The rib to be ground is on the block in the left rear corner where the hanger for the pinion bolts on. (It’s much easier to do this before installing.)

3. Keep 4.0 exhaust manifold. *See 4.ii on needing to modify to fit 4.2 intake.
i. Using a Renix Exhaust manifold is said to give better clearance for routing the exhaust around the front diff.
ii. The front exhaust manifold pipe will need hammered a bit to clear the power steering bracket. (Use 4.2 PS bracket. Bracket will need to be slotted where it bolts to the intake. {The intake sits about 1/2" higher on the head than it did on the 4.2})
iii. The 4.0 manifold flange will need altered to clear front axle differential. (The Wiki mentions another method of creating a new axle bracket that clears manifold flange without altering the flange)

4. Install the 4.2 Intake.
i. Use a dremel tool to carve slots in the bottom of the alignment dowel holes in the 4.2 intake to sit on top of the dowels on the 4.0 head.
ii. The two center exhaust manifold pipes need "shaped" with a ball-peen hammer in
order to clear the 4.2 intake.

5. The space between the intake and exhaust manifold mounting tabs may be too large to use the stock washers. Get larger washers or make new ones to bridge the gap.

6. Belts: Can go with the v-belt from the 4.2 or the serp belt from the 4.0. (Must match water pump with belt system.)
i. To use the 4.2 balancer/crank pulley, you need to stack a few washers to push the balancer back far enough to line up the pulleys. This method allows you to use 4.2 fan.
ii. If you use the 4.0 serp belt you may need to install electric radiator fans. (Most XJ 4.0s have an off center fan that will hit the battery tray.
iii. You can swap serp belt and pulleys from any 4.0, but will need the water pump from a ZJ or TJ Jeep in order to mount the fan center.

7. Flywheels/Flexplate must match the starter.
i. If you stick with the stock Eagle transmission you’ll need to install the 4.2 starter. If you are swapping in a Cherokee transmission you’ll need to install the 4.0 flywheel/flexplate and 4.0 starter.

8. Pilot Bushing: To keep a stock Eagle transmission you must purchase a pilot bushing correct for your tranny. The stock transmission input shaft will not fit the 4.0 crank without the proper adapter. (Advance Adapters have no information about Eagles so don't ask. Tell them the model of your transmission, the year of your Eagle, and tell them it is for a JEEP Wrangler. The part they send you will work.)

9. Swap in 4.2 Distributor. (If you are staying carb you’ll need to keep the 4.2 distributor and hold down.)

10. Must use oil pan from the 4.2. The 4.2 pan is needed so as to not interfere with the front axles.

11. Use 4.2 Motor mounts? I think 4.0 and 4.2 are the same?

12. Electric Fuel pump. The 4.0 will not accept a 4.2 mechanical fuel pump so you’ll have to install an electric fuel pump. (Mount back by the tank and wired in a relay for ignition ON only.)

13. New exhaust system will need to be fabricated.





So let's start collecting some info. There is a good deal of info on the Wiki that can be found here: Can I swap in a Chrysler 4.0?

Here is another good swap link I found: 4.0HO into CJ7

What I don't see on there is what engine is the best for swapping? I've heard bad things about the Renix system in the 90 and older and then at some point they swapped to OBDII...are these too hard to swap in? What's the optimal range year range to look for? Cherokee only? Grand Chero...Wrangler? Seeing as I don't have the expertise in the area maybe I shouldn't have been the first poster, but I figured we can start discussing and getting some content on the site and I'll update the OP as we get more info.

I'm unleashing the dogs...let's see who bites! :)


Last edited by Prafeston on Thu Nov 07, 2013 7:18 pm, edited 8 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: 4.0 Engine Swap
PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 3:43 pm 
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Eagle

Joined: Thu Feb 07, 2013 6:43 pm
Posts: 2030
90 and older is renix
91-95 is Chrysler high output
96-death of 4.0 is obd2

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 Post subject: Re: 4.0 Engine Swap
PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 6:51 pm 
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Javelin

Joined: Thu Mar 28, 2013 9:07 am
Posts: 216
Some random notes:
1) The Hesco kit is based on a 1992 system, and that is supposed to be the most power in stock form. The 1999 up intake manifold is a better design, but that can be used with the rest of the 1992 system.

2) If you put the 4.0 serpantine belts on a 4.2L block, the 1994 to 1996 range has an alternator bracket that is supported better. A 4.2L is missing the bolt bosses on the lower passenger side of the block, and the earlier and later alternator brackets rely on those for support. If you get the right one you just need a bolt and locknut to push off the block on the bottom.

3) The XJ 4.0 has an offset fan that does not fit in an Eagle. It hits the battery tray. The Wrangler 4.0 and some Grand Cherokee 4.0s have a center fan that does fit.


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 Post subject: Re: 4.0 Engine Swap
PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 8:56 pm 
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Eagle
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Joined: Fri Feb 08, 2013 10:22 am
Posts: 1757
Location: Missouri, Rolla
captspillane wrote:
3) The XJ 4.0 has an offset fan that does not fit in an Eagle. It hits the battery tray. The Wrangler 4.0 and some Grand Cherokee 4.0s have a center fan that does fit.

So are you saying that no XJ Cherokee is a direct swap into the Eagle? So you'd be better off with the 4.0 from a Wrangler or Grand Chero?

Is this why more people seem to just stick with the 4.0 Head Swap?


Last edited by Prafeston on Mon Oct 07, 2013 7:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: 4.0 Engine Swap
PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 9:01 pm 
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Eagle

Joined: Thu Feb 07, 2013 6:43 pm
Posts: 2030
In josh's write up, he explains how to get past the offset. I wouldn't be suprised If you could change what the water pump is mounted on (maybe water pump) to get a centered fan

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1987 :amc: Jeep Comanche - 4.0


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 Post subject: Re: 4.0 Engine Swap
PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 10:27 pm 
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Javelin

Joined: Thu Mar 28, 2013 9:07 am
Posts: 216
All my 4.0s are from XJs and they work fine. Its been done using their fan but I'll just go to a Wrangler yard here in my hometown or Daveys Jeeps in Ohio and get the fan from them and a new water pump from rock auto. I swapped 4.0s from a XJ into a YJ and it was no big deal. It's a cleaner setup and seems cheap enough to be worth the extra trouble.


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 Post subject: Re: 4.0 Engine Swap
PostPosted: Fri Jun 28, 2013 8:36 am 
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Hornet
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Joined: Thu May 02, 2013 10:40 am
Posts: 1175
Location: North Seattle sort of
Prafeston wrote:
So I know there is a wealth of knowledge out there on the Wiki, but I figured we need some more content for the forums. This thread will be for discussing any and all 4.0 Swap related things. If anyone had a write up with pictures let me know and I'll add them in here to the OP.

When I say 4.0 Engine Swap I mean the full swap. We can make another one to discuss 4.0 Head Swaps.

So let's start collecting some info. There is a good deal of info on the Wiki that can be found here: Chrysler 4.0 Engine Swap

What I don't see on there is what engine is the best for swapping? I've heard bad things about the Renix system in the 90 and older and then at some point they swapped to OBDII...are these too hard to swap in? What's the optimal range year range to look for? Cherokee only? Grand Chero...Wrangler? Seeing as I don't have the expertise in the area maybe I shouldn't have been the first poster, but I figured we can start discussing and getting some content on the site and I'll update the OP as we get more info.

I'm unleashing the dogs...let's see who bites! :)


Fixed the misprint above. Renix is a combination or Renault/Bendix and it gets a bad rap when only the connectors are an issue. I took mine apart and cleaned them and sprayed with electronic contact cleaner/sealer. Most are over 200,000 miles by now. Codes aren't stored so you need to test before you shut it off for any issues. Codes are cleared whenever it's shut off. Driving to high altitude from sea-level means you have to stop about every 3,000 feet up and restart to reset the computer for best running. The computer is under the dash along with 1/2 the wiring.

NOTE: Head ports changed when they went to HO (raised up 3/8") so the Renix intake is not a direct bolt on to the HO head and vice versa, but it's doable with minor mods.

Grand Cherokee wiring is a (insert 4 letter word) bitch to bypass and/or parse down to just the EFI. I tried for over a year with a '93 ZJ harness. The computer kept looking for door lock sensors I didn't have. The 4.0L and AW4 (only year ZJ with AW4) are in my '84 J10 with a Rubicon NV242 Rocklok case (4:1 low range) with Dana 60 rear and D44 front (4.10s for now) and 38" tires. I wanted to put 52" Humvees on, but with my broken shoulder I don't know how easily I'll be able to climb in anymore.

If you say Wrangler for the wiring, even junkyard prices skyrocket. XJ harness is all under the hood except the auto trans controller. Until '00 or so Wranglers used a 999 auto and not AW4. The Wrangler flexplate and converter are needed, along with a mod to the bell of the Eagle 998 (for the CPS) to run EFI, OR get the harmonic balancer CPS kit from Hesco. For AW4, you can run the XJ setup.

Speaking of AW4s, prior to 08/90 (same time frame as Renix efi) they are 21 spline (Eagle Tcases are 23 spline like the '91 and later AW4s) If you want to run the Eagle tcase with an AW4, it has to be 23 spline and you need a 1" spacer ring to make it fit (thicker than 7/8" and also used for Dana 300s) AW4 has it's own controller and harness under the dash till '96 at least. '96 is the WORST year for doing a swap because it's 1/2 OBDI and half OBDII and some of the sensors are 1 year only.

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Last edited by carnuck on Fri Jun 28, 2013 8:59 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: 4.0 Engine Swap
PostPosted: Fri Jun 28, 2013 8:42 am 
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Hornet
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Joined: Thu May 02, 2013 10:40 am
Posts: 1175
Location: North Seattle sort of
captspillane wrote:
All my 4.0s are from XJs and they work fine. Its been done using their fan but I'll just go to a Wrangler yard here in my hometown or Daveys Jeeps in Ohio and get the fan from them and a new water pump from rock auto. I swapped 4.0s from a XJ into a YJ and it was no big deal. It's a cleaner setup and seems cheap enough to be worth the extra trouble.



Just a note here that 4.0L and 4.2L with serpentine belt motors have reverse rotation water pumps. The ZJ and YJ/TJ pumps will take a fan. XJ/MJ will not. The waterpump pulley for fan style pump is the same as the idler pulley. 2.5L 4 cyls use the same belt and pulley setup (AC, etc) as 4.0L.

There is a ridge on the driver's side of the block of later 4.0L motors that needs to be notched to fit the front diff hanger.

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 Post subject: Re: 4.0 Engine Swap
PostPosted: Fri Jun 28, 2013 8:43 am 
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Hornet
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Joined: Thu May 02, 2013 10:40 am
Posts: 1175
Location: North Seattle sort of
Prafeston wrote:
captspillane wrote:
3) The XJ 4.0 has an offset fan that does not fit in an Eagle. It hits the battery tray. The Wrangler 4.0 and some Grand Cherokee 4.0s have a center fan that does fit.

So are you saying that no XJ Cherokee is a direct swap into the Eagle? So you'd be better off with the 4.0 from a Wrangler or Grand Chero?

Is this way more people seem to just stick with the 4.0 Head Swap?



Only the waterpump needs to be changed to run a fan.

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 Post subject: Re: 4.0 Engine Swap
PostPosted: Fri Jun 28, 2013 8:55 am 
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Hornet
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Location: North Seattle sort of
Standard trans:
Early years (till mid '89) are Peugeot BA 10/5 but many were swapped for AX-15 when those blew up.

BA 10/5 is 21 spline and has 3 screws holding the shifter on. AX-15 is 23 spline (some have claimed to have 21 spline ones but no proof has showed yet) and it has 4 bolts holding the shifter on. There are 2 different AX-15 pilot shaft diameters. External slave is the best way to go. Internal $lave$ like to blow out at the worst possible time.

NOTE: AX5, AX15s little brother, looks very similar but it will NOT bolt to AMC 6 (it's actually a 4 cyl Toyota Corolla RWD trans modded for Jeep use) AX5 is not very strong and originally was used for carbed 2.5L and 2.8 V6 in early XJs. TJ guys look for the Dodge Dakota bell so they can run AX-15s instead.

1" Spacer is also needed if you keep the Eagle tcase.

Note that you also need a trans crossbar (custom) to do an AW4 or AX15 swap.

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