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 Post subject: Noob needs some advice
PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 6:01 pm 
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Noob

Joined: Sun Jul 28, 2013 2:50 pm
Posts: 4
So...I'm hoping to find me an Eagle that I can use as an almost daily driver....but. I have no idea what to look for. I'm pretty open as far as year and body type, but I am thinking the big bird, not an SX/4. Any words of wisdom would be appreciated. TIA.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 6:09 pm 
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Eagle
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Joined: Fri Feb 08, 2013 10:22 am
Posts: 1757
Location: Missouri, Rolla
Where are you located?

Rust on the frame/rocker panels is what you want to be watching out for. As with most old cars you may have to start replacing vac lines and stuff as a leak will cause the car to run like poo.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 6:12 pm 
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Eagle

Joined: Thu Feb 07, 2013 6:43 pm
Posts: 2030
from what ive seen, you will want to check under the plastic skirting for rust issues, and a few other areas that I am unsure of. (hopefully someone else will jump in) I believe four engines were offered: the GM iron duke 151 c.i. four, AMC 150 C.I. four, the AMC 258 C.I. six, and a rare turbo diesel. at least two are known to be still in existence. Transfer cases were either a full time for 1980 and at least some 1981 models. 1981 up to 1984 were stop and shift to engage the transfer case. 1985 to 1988 had shift on the fly.

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1985 eagle wagon - 258
1987 :amc: Jeep Comanche - 4.0


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 6:30 pm 
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Eagle
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Location: Missouri, Rolla
Yeah and the stop and shift switches had a pull down switch and a flip over switch. You had to pull the bottom switch down and hold it while you flipped the other switch over. The 85 and up was just the flip switch.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 7:17 am 
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Noob

Joined: Sun Jul 28, 2013 2:50 pm
Posts: 4
I'm in Michigan...so the rust is an issue that I'm concerned with for sure.

And - what about getting parts/parts availabilty/restoration?


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 7:44 am 
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Eagle
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Joined: Fri Feb 08, 2013 4:49 pm
Posts: 1882
Location: Toledo, Iowa USA
Meemuh wrote:
I'm in Michigan...so the rust is an issue that I'm concerned with for sure.

And - what about getting parts/parts availabilty/restoration?

Many mechanical parts are still fairly easy to get. Body parts are a different story. You have to scrounge for what used stuff is out there.

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Doug, formerly known as IowaEagle.
"You gotta know the basics before you do the mods."
"I was in to AMC's before AMC's were cool."

1970 Ambassador SST 2 dr Hard Top Coupe
1980 Concord DL 4 dr
1982 Eagle SX/4 Sport


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 3:44 pm 
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Javelin

Joined: Sat Apr 06, 2013 10:51 am
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Location: Oshkosh, Wis.
If you want a "rust free" car you need to get one from the south and have it check out localy then have it shipped to you...and some luck also.

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1976 hornet sedan 258 with 4.0 fuel injection
1985 eagle sedan 4.0 with fuel injection
jeep 1997 grand cherokee

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 3:54 pm 
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Hornet
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not the south. those are still rusty. you need one from the west. and not the "coastal" west. anything from about 50-60 miles or so from the coast is in the desert. its DRY out here, and cars rust so slowly. from the top down. first the paint gets cooked away, then they SLOWLY surface rust away. lol. there are vehicles around here where I live that are over 100 years old, and 90% of the metal is all still there.

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WHEN IN DOUBT, BUY MORE BEER!!!!

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62 rambler classic (casper)
63 rambler american (rosie)
82 eagle sx4 (honeybadger)
82 eagle sw (rottywagon)
79 spirit (drag race car)


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PostPosted: Thu May 26, 2016 5:48 pm 
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Noob

Joined: Thu May 26, 2016 5:16 pm
Posts: 2
good luck on a rust free car north of I3o, better luck finding a body shop who can "bend steel"
:amc: : 1985amceagle:


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