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 Post subject: MC2100 Rebuild
PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2013 6:57 pm 
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shaggimo wrote:
Since I have yet to see one, and everyone seems to do the upgrade, I figured we should have a how to tear down and rebuild a motorcraft carb (you know for us that are either too cheap, or too strapped to buy one already done). This will be more of a pictoral with a few comments here and there, these carbs are wonderfully simple, probably more so than a bbd. So sit back and have a brew, this may take a while, lol.

My junkyard 2100 was giving me a few issues, stalling out and what not, so it was time to go through it and see what it was really made of.

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You'll want a nice clean area free of clutter to start, then you can start disassembling, keep track of your fasteners, you don't need to follow my order of operation, but this was the route I went.

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That little pin can be a pain, but it will come out.

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take note of your spring, and clock of the choke pull off.

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remove the topside screws and the lids ready for removal (set all your gaskets aside, do NOT throw them out yet, you'll see why later). This carb did not have a choke, but I'll show more on adding one later.

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The float is retained by a little wire clip, pop it off gently then you can remove the float.

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remove the seat, set aside.

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Jets are wide open, pick a "good" screw driver to remove them, they may come out hard.

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Notice the pin inside.

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Below that pin there is a check ball, I used a small pen magnet to remove it.

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Moving to the front of the carb, the accelerator pump.

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Note the spring direction.

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Remove the rubber plunger.

Flipping the carb over, you'll see the power valve cover.

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Power valve un screws for removal.

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So now you have basically a bare body, I didn't bother removing the throttle plates, they were in good working order and pretty clean. Now it's ready for a dip in carb cleaner. Put all covers in the solution as well, I usually let them sit a 1-2 hours, if they are pretty clean like this one was, really nasty ones, sit overnight.

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Solution can be purchased at any parts store, make sure the carb is fully submersed.

This carb had a plastic float, I would advise not reusing it, as they age the can take on gas, and not work properly. Since I had a couple other mc's kicking around, I lucked out that one had a brass float, quick float test proved it was good.

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Now is a good time to get organized, clean up your area, put down new newspaperand start sorting your gaskets you recieved in your rebuild kit. Once everything is all said and done, you can start removing your pieces from the solution, scrub them with a brush, dunk them back in to rinse, continu scrubbing and dunking until you are satisfied with the cleanliness of the carb. Dry the parts the best you can, it's best to douse them with an aerosol carb cleaner to gaet any residue off, blast out all passeges and ports as well. You can let it drip dry, or hit it with the air compressor, your choice.

Moving on.
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As you can see all parts and gaskets are layed out ready to go, now that you have all your gaskets matched, you can dispose of your old ones.

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This is the stack of leftovers.

Now it's just reverse order.

Power valve and gasket, new valve and gasket were supplied in the kit.
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cover and gasket.
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cover on, and don't forget to install your idle mixture screws, since the carb is upside down at this point anyway.

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cleaned jets installed.

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Front of carb: kit supplies a new rubber plunger for the accelerator pump.

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Gently push it in, you'll see the rib on the oposing side when it's in fully.

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sping in place.

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Kit supplies new accelerator pump diaphram.

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Cover and lever assembly back on.

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Now you can flip the carb upright and begin assembling the top side.

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Remember the check ball, use the new one in the kit.

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Fit the gasket to the venturi cluster, then install.

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Remember the pin.

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And the bolt.

Next you're ready for needle and seat assembly, a new is supplied with the kit, I reused the original one due to it still being good, use your best judgement on this.

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Pick the correct spring clip for your application and install the float.

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Setting the float level: I set mine at 1/4", seems to be fine there.

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set the rule across the flat surface, apply light pressure to the tab to lift float, do not force! Bend the area between the float and fulcrum to achieve desired height.

Addition of the choke:
Not much to really say here, just a few pictures of the linkage, it's pretty straight forward.

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This illustrates where that small two hole peanut shaped gasket goes, he choke housing then goes on. Notice the linkage in the next couple pics.

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Ready for the top plate:

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Set the gasket on the body to make sure it aligns properly.

Set cover on and Bolt it down.
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Last step, hooking up the choke pull off.
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checking the clock.

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Finished.

Now it's a manner of putting it on the car, making your final adjustments, idle mixture, speed, and you're set to go!
Simple huh? Any questions feel free to ask.

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 Post subject: Re: MC2100 Rebuild
PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2013 7:44 pm 
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Eagle

Joined: Thu Feb 07, 2013 6:43 pm
Posts: 2030
thanks for posting that again!!! now I have another to copy to the wiki, im learning as I go, I guess if a few old guys at the nest could figure the setup out I can too. shag, if you eventually get involved in that post you added writups here: http://wiki.amcevolution.com/index.php/Added_Writeups
to help with creating pages here's a link that ????? came up with at the nest:http://wiki.amcevolution.com/index.php/Basic_Editing_Techniques

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 Post subject: Re: MC2100 Rebuild
PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2013 7:57 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 07, 2013 12:18 pm
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Location: cny
Thanks for the links, yes eventually I will be posting to the wiki too, when time allows. I have lots of oddball debunked myth info to throw in there, and I'm sure I'll make more as I go.

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p0wn wrote:
rofl beej ahhahahaha that's a reference to a blowjob right??? WE got a blow job for our 100th member... it's the good life.


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 Post subject: Re: MC2100 Rebuild
PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2013 8:03 pm 
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Eagle

Joined: Thu Feb 07, 2013 6:43 pm
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ive been on there already posting stuff, slowly figuring it out

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1985 eagle wagon - 258
1987 :amc: Jeep Comanche - 4.0


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 Post subject: Re: MC2100 Rebuild
PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2013 5:07 pm 
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Location: Toledo, Iowa USA
"I guess if a few old guys at the nest could figure the setup out I can too" Huh? :roll:

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"You gotta know the basics before you do the mods."
"I was in to AMC's before AMC's were cool."

1970 Ambassador SST 2 dr Hard Top Coupe
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 Post subject: Re: MC2100 Rebuild
PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2013 6:18 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 07, 2013 12:18 pm
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Location: cny
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Don't under estimate those guys, some of them have forgotten more than we'll ever know :shock: . Just think, we're just copying what they've already researched....

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