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PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2013 6:48 pm 
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Metropolitan
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Trying to remove most of the dash on my 80 wagon for a bunch of reasons:

- the late 80s radio was horribly spliced in and not working
- under the dash they glued a Rockford fosgate amp underneath the passenger carpet (yes glued)
- the heater core is currently bypassed and probably need some work
- the only interior light currently working is the dash illumination of the gas gauge
- speaking of gas gauge, it seems to read inaccuratley and stops working at 1/2 tank
- the quartz clock only works when the headlights are on
- it would be nice to give things a good cleaning
- the air controls are slipping out of the radio cluster
- I'm sure there are some additional mysteries to discover
- I need to revalue and reinforce some broken/cracked pieces

Heck if I have no idea how to get the instrument cluster out. I've been unscrewing just about everything I can find and it still won't budge. I can't even get the front clear guard out!

Rawr

Any help would be appreciated


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2013 7:24 pm 
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Site Admin
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I/C is a bit of a pain in the ass to get out, have you found the screws along the top and bottom of the unit? You have to carefully flex the dash panel to gain access to them. You then have to perform a gumby to disconnect the speedo cable from the back (which surprisingly has quite the retention, to aiding the cluster in staying put).

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2013 8:01 pm 
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Eagle
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Location: Missouri, Rolla
Sounds like a major pain the tush! :)

Good luck with all those electrical issues too! I hate that stuff!


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2013 8:47 pm 
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Eagle

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Mewcus wrote:
- the quartz clock only works when the headlights are on



does it work when you leave the windows up and back it to death? those are the only two times mine works. I put in a clock from a ford under the dash.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2013 9:00 pm 
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Metropolitan
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Shagg wrote:
I/C is a bit of a pain in the ass to get out, have you found the screws along the top and bottom of the unit? You have to carefully flex the dash panel to gain access to them. You then have to perform a gumby to disconnect the speedo cable from the back (which surprisingly has quite the retention, to aiding the cluster in staying put).


I'll take pictures tomorrow morning to post and indicate all the screws I've taken off... Cuz I've pulled a lot.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2013 9:52 pm 
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Hornet
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hmm... I guess I don't get why people say the dash on these are so hard to pull. I can have my entire dash out in about 30 min. glove box, hvac, headlight/wiper switches and all. the only part that is a PITA is the speedo cable. ESPECIALLY IF ITS AN A/C CAR!!! there are screws along the top of the dash that go strait up into the dash pad. there are screws right above the heater controls, below the radio. there are screws on the left side of the glove box behind the door. there is a screw on the far left side of the dash between the headlight/wiper switch pointed at the door. there are screws down along the bottom of the steering column also. there are a few more screws on the right side of the glove box. (pretty much look anywhere there is black, or shadows. lol)

good luck!

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 6:59 am 
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Metropolitan
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Here are the pics of what I have taken off so far (hope it makes sense) I've also removed a healthy portion of the glove box (not shown)

Image
Dash deconstruction by mewwcus, on Flickr

Image
Dash deconstruction by mewwcus, on Flickr

Image
Dash deconstruction by mewwcus, on Flickr


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 7:19 am 
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Hornet
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Location: North Seattle sort of
Pull headlight switch on (disconnect battery) and feel for the "button' on the switch you push to release the knob. It only works with the switch already in the on position. Sounds like a bad dash ground for the clock (mine too. Only gets power when the headlight power back feeds it)

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 7:48 am 
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Pacer
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yeah that headlight switch can be a pain in the ass to remove. here's a youtube vid of a cherokee unit that is dang near the same as the eagles (as far as removal goes)

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 8:01 am 
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Eagle

Joined: Thu Feb 07, 2013 6:43 pm
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carnuck wrote:
Pull headlight switch on (disconnect battery) and feel for the "button' on the switch you push to release the knob. It only works with the switch already in the on position. Sounds like a bad dash ground for the clock (mine too. Only gets power when the headlight power back feeds it)

thanks for the suggestion, i will have to check mine out now

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