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 Post subject: Long Awaited Overhaul
PostPosted: Fri Dec 27, 2013 11:50 pm 
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Javelin
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Joined: Mon Apr 08, 2013 6:08 am
Posts: 280
Location: Royersford, PA
So yesterday afternoon my car developed what seemed like a misfire and was running loud and rough. I said what the hell and decided to get a set of those Belden 700230 wires from Napa (Thanks casper!). They're nice wires, but it's the most awfully mismatched set I've ever seen. I'm lucky the 1 and 6 wires even reached they were so short. Probably should have taken them back, but the guy said they were the last set and it didn't bother me that much. They seemed to fix the problem at first, but it came back shortly after. Oh well, it's a nice new set.

I drove probably 60+ miles yesterday running extremely rough and underpowered. I told myself months ago that I'd be getting to the 4.0 head swap and a slight engine overhaul this winter since I have everything ready to go, so I decided that I would start immediately upon getting home. I drove to my mom's storage shed to dig for parts, got what I needed and headed home. That was the scariest drive yet in the sense that it was the first time I truly didn't think the car would get me there, but IT DID. The engine was popping and ticking and squealing very loudly and I was losing power, but it still sent me along at 45mph and pulled me up the steep driveway reluctantly.

Here it is being torn down in the crowded garage:

Image

Still haven't seen the cylinders, but I can't believe I got 12,000 miles out of it since I bought the car. I found a big crack in the exhaust manifold, several of the rockers had a lot of play in them, the intake valves were gummed up, and everything under the valve cover was horribly dirty. That, and I already know the timing chain has a lot of slack.

Here you can see the crack that went all the way through to the inside of the manifold
Image

Gummed up intake valves. The intake manifold looked surprisingly clean inside though.
Image

I have until the 19th of January to finish this, when I go back to school. Not working at the moment, so this is about all I'll be doing until then. I'm still trying to decide how far I want to go with the rebuild, but I need to see what the cylinders look like first. I will update this post as it progresses.

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1982 AMC Eagle SX/4 Sport 4x4
-4.0l I6 Engine (circa 1996)
-GM Hydroboost Brakes
-TF998 Auto/NP129
-Carter BBD Carb
-MSD Streetfire Ignition/TFI
-Aluminum CJ Radiator
-205/75/R15 General Grabber A/T Tires


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 27, 2013 11:59 pm 
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Javelin
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Joined: Mon Apr 08, 2013 6:08 am
Posts: 280
Location: Royersford, PA
I have a couple questions for anyone who's done this before.

1. What did you use for an exhaust flange? I found a Walker 31885 flange that should work, but I'm not sure what to use for the pipe since it has to be flared.

2. Would it be acceptable to use new lifters with an old cam? I've got the cam from the 4.0 to put in, but the matching lifters are lost somewhere in storage from my mom moving. I was thinking these for better oiling: http://www.jegs.com/i/Crower/258/66031X ... Id=1145259
Also, can I get a new distributor gear or do I need to search for the matching one?

_________________
1982 AMC Eagle SX/4 Sport 4x4
-4.0l I6 Engine (circa 1996)
-GM Hydroboost Brakes
-TF998 Auto/NP129
-Carter BBD Carb
-MSD Streetfire Ignition/TFI
-Aluminum CJ Radiator
-205/75/R15 General Grabber A/T Tires


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 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Dec 28, 2013 9:23 am 
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Metropolitan

Joined: Sun May 26, 2013 5:46 pm
Posts: 29
Use the header manifold for the 4.0 head. You will have to modify your exhaust to connect to it and the bracket that holds the front axle in place. If you don't have the 4.0 header I have a spare for 50 bucks plus shipping. You can get the flange you need and have a muffler shop make you a flanged down pipe to connect to the header. and tie in the rest of your exhaust system to that.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 28, 2013 9:47 am 
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Javelin
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Joined: Mon Apr 08, 2013 6:08 am
Posts: 280
Location: Royersford, PA
I have a new header already. Here I test fit it to see approximately how much space I would have. As you can see, I had to dent cylinder 4 a bit and shave down my stock intake for it to fit. Hopefully this doesn't hinder performance too much.

Image

I'd rather not take it to a shop if I don't absolutely have to. I found this flared adapter pipe flange, looks like it would work: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-41726

_________________
1982 AMC Eagle SX/4 Sport 4x4
-4.0l I6 Engine (circa 1996)
-GM Hydroboost Brakes
-TF998 Auto/NP129
-Carter BBD Carb
-MSD Streetfire Ignition/TFI
-Aluminum CJ Radiator
-205/75/R15 General Grabber A/T Tires


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 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Dec 28, 2013 9:52 am 
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Javelin
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Joined: Mon Apr 08, 2013 6:08 am
Posts: 280
Location: Royersford, PA
Nevermind, here's the 2.25" adapter that should work: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-41725

_________________
1982 AMC Eagle SX/4 Sport 4x4
-4.0l I6 Engine (circa 1996)
-GM Hydroboost Brakes
-TF998 Auto/NP129
-Carter BBD Carb
-MSD Streetfire Ignition/TFI
-Aluminum CJ Radiator
-205/75/R15 General Grabber A/T Tires


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Dec 28, 2013 10:54 am 
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Rogue

Joined: Wed Mar 20, 2013 1:32 pm
Posts: 81
Location: Akron, OH
I am excited to see the progress! Are you doing the 4.0 head swap now?

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I like to to tell people my Eagle is like a Ferrari. It's quirky, tempermental, border-line exotic, and something you don't see everyday. See? Makes perfect sense....

1985 AMC Eagle
1988 Lincoln Town Car


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 28, 2013 11:39 am 
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Javelin
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Joined: Mon Apr 08, 2013 6:08 am
Posts: 280
Location: Royersford, PA
I sure am, the head's sitting there painted and ready to go.

_________________
1982 AMC Eagle SX/4 Sport 4x4
-4.0l I6 Engine (circa 1996)
-GM Hydroboost Brakes
-TF998 Auto/NP129
-Carter BBD Carb
-MSD Streetfire Ignition/TFI
-Aluminum CJ Radiator
-205/75/R15 General Grabber A/T Tires


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Dec 28, 2013 12:35 pm 
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Hornet
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Joined: Tue Feb 12, 2013 6:39 pm
Posts: 922
you can put new lifters on a used cam. if you EVER get used lifters out of order, forget using them, get new ones.

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dave

WHEN IN DOUBT, BUY MORE BEER!!!!

ASE cert. mechanic 15 years.

http://www.picasaweb.google.com/das24rules

62 rambler classic (casper)
63 rambler american (rosie)
82 eagle sx4 (honeybadger)
82 eagle sw (rottywagon)
79 spirit (drag race car)


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 28, 2013 3:06 pm 
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Javelin
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Joined: Mon Apr 08, 2013 6:08 am
Posts: 280
Location: Royersford, PA
Ok, that's good. I'm looking for a good moly based assembly lube for the cam, and I plan to use Rotella T 10w-30 with Eastwood ZDDP additive for break-in. I'll replace the rings and main bearings if I have the time and money.

I had all the lifters and pushrods individually labeled, but they're probably at the bottom of a mountain in one of two storage sheds...

_________________
1982 AMC Eagle SX/4 Sport 4x4
-4.0l I6 Engine (circa 1996)
-GM Hydroboost Brakes
-TF998 Auto/NP129
-Carter BBD Carb
-MSD Streetfire Ignition/TFI
-Aluminum CJ Radiator
-205/75/R15 General Grabber A/T Tires


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Dec 28, 2013 3:41 pm 
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Hornet
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Joined: Tue Feb 12, 2013 6:39 pm
Posts: 922
you can never use to much molly assembly lube!!! be VERY generous with it! when you do the bearings on the bottom, get some plastigauge, and make sure things measure out correctly. and make DAMNED sure there is nothing on the back of the bearing. and pay attention to rod position. go back to the same place.

_________________
dave

WHEN IN DOUBT, BUY MORE BEER!!!!

ASE cert. mechanic 15 years.

http://www.picasaweb.google.com/das24rules

62 rambler classic (casper)
63 rambler american (rosie)
82 eagle sx4 (honeybadger)
82 eagle sw (rottywagon)
79 spirit (drag race car)


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