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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 1:00 pm 
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Pacer
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Baskinator wrote:
I could be wrong, but I don't think the bumper mount is supposed to be welded solid. It's meant to act like a shock and blow out in the case of a crash.


Really? I just thought it was a crappy welding job on the manufacture's part...

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 2:36 pm 
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iirc the shock absorbing bumper mounts were only on the 2wd cars. had to absorb a 5mph impact. the eagles got "truck" safety standards, so their bumper mounts are solid and lighter than the 2wd cars. same style and all as the 2wd, just no spring loaded shock absorber in them.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 6:52 pm 
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whuntmore I don't use photobucket either. here is the site I use http://www.servimg.com/. I have used it for several years and I have never had any problems with it.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 7:27 pm 
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So I got a new starter solenoid, was charging the battery, I got impatient, and put the charger on start.

The car started, and I ran it for about 20 seconds, and it died, started it again, same thing, and then again.

Now it won't start. No click, nothing. battery fine. I figured I may have overloaded the system (??) with having the battery charger on, while the car was running.

Is that possible? what could I have burnt out? Any ideas?

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 9:08 pm 
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we do that at the shop all the time. has NEVER seemed to bother the charging system, or any other electronic/electrical system. check your voltage at the coil, check for spark. check to see if your solenoid is working. jumping from the battery, to the energize terminal on the solenoid. (make SURE car is in park, and wheels off the ground. I HATE telling people to do this with the thought of them not being safe and starting the car in gear.) if the solenoid doesn't click, check ground. if it does click, check voltage coming out going to starter. I have seen a starter be bad before, and pulls so much load they fry new solenoids quickly. ESPECIALLY if they are lower grade without very good contacts in them.

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WHEN IN DOUBT, BUY MORE BEER!!!!

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http://www.picasaweb.google.com/das24rules

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63 rambler american (rosie)
82 eagle sx4 (honeybadger)
82 eagle sw (rottywagon)
79 spirit (drag race car)


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 13, 2014 11:14 pm 
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I'll clean the ground better, and see. I know it doesn't even click (did the first four times) then I'll try jumping from the battery.

Maybe I did pull too much load thru the solenoid… the starter cranked really quickly the first few times.

Any suggestions for a Good solenoid, instead of the typical ones?

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 12:03 am 
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Best thing you can do is give them a better ground. The auto solenoid grounds through a small wire at the bottom going to the neutral safety switch I believe. The manual solenoid is much easier to ground because it grounds to the fender, and you can just run a ground directly to the battery.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 12:18 am 
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im a napa auto care center shop. our Echlin brand stuff has always been real good. baskinater made a good point. make sure your nss isn't jacked up. it grounds the solenoid. hold your key in the crank position, and wiggle your shifter. in park, and wiggle it in the neutral position also. the way our solenoids mount, (iirc yours is an auto?) pointing to the ground will be a 3rd small stud with a wire. run a jumper wire to the negative terminal on your battery. AGAIN MAKE SURE THE CAR WONT MOVE!!! try cranking then. that grounds the auto solenoid. a manual solenoid like mine get their ground thru the body. (having manual cars, I forget about small things like this.)

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dave

WHEN IN DOUBT, BUY MORE BEER!!!!

ASE cert. mechanic 15 years.

http://www.picasaweb.google.com/das24rules

62 rambler classic (casper)
63 rambler american (rosie)
82 eagle sx4 (honeybadger)
82 eagle sw (rottywagon)
79 spirit (drag race car)


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 6:35 am 
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mine is an auto, but I thought that one also grounded thru the body from the bracket. Doesn't matter, I'll check all the connections again, and if ok, I'll try jumping the solenoid.

Ok, I jumped across the starter solenoid, and nothing. I take it the rebuilt starter I bought is crap?

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 7:57 am 
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Drawing amperage through a small surface area can cause instantaneous corrosion. That's why cathodic protection works so well on boats. Even if you just cleaned the terminals it take a second of high amperage for the contact area to oxidize. Countless times I've had an Eagle have trouble starting and after a couple minutes of the starter turning it suddenly won't turn anymore. I have to clean the battery posts again and sometimes even take all the rings off both sides of the solenoid and then give them a quick brush and put them back on.

Eagle solenoids also fail often because of poor ground connections. With a stickshift solenoid I run a ground cable right from the ground bolt on the block to a hole drilled into the base of the solenoid. The two tiny screws to the body don't do the job reliably. With the auto style put a ground wire right from the ground post to the peg at the bottom as your first step of troubleshooting. I also use a manual solenoid in all my automatics. I've had solenoid grounds fail countless times in the past and that is the only permaneant reliable solution. I also value the ability to restart the car in drive. You never know when a vacuum hose will split and fall off and your engine will stall.


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